“Alligator-like Creatures”

Just got back from the Mae La Oon Refugee Camp! Boy was it an experience. But to keep things chronological, I’ll go back to part two of the Thi Lo Su adventure.

So, Dandi and I had just arrived at the campsite. The four of us began rapidly catching up and recounting how we all had the same thoughts as we were hiking to this waterfall. Rachael was also trying to figure out how to get herself medically evacuated and seriously considered just sleeping in the middle of the road. Haha, it sounds like we share more than just a name in common. Have I mentioned she also has a thing for moose? 😉 After talking for 10 minutes, Rachael asked BWU if we could go visit the waterfall for the rest of the afternoon. Zar Zar looks at us with a completely straight face and goes, “Oh, we can’t go today. It closed at 3 pm.” Death bullets. I tell you death bullets were shot in Zar Zar’s direction. Are you kidding me?! We had just hiked and hiked and hiked for the past oh who knows how long to find out THAT THE WATERFALL WAS CLOSED. I was not happy. Neither were the other girls. Before we could get too carried away with our grumbling, Zar Zar did tell us there was a creek nearby where we could go swimming. Rachael was all set to go right that minute but I told them I needed thirty more minutes to rest my feet. Morgan and Dandi agreed they would like more resting time before going to the creek too.

Thirty minutes later, I hobbled through the high grass near the campsite. Now, I didn’t grow up in an area where there are ticks and I don’t really know where ticks live (tall grass right? Does that also count for Thailand?) so I was a little concerned walking through the grass but figured if that hike didn’t kill me, a little tick wouldn’t either (unless it had lime disease). I didn’t get bitten though, so not to worry. The creek was a five-minute walk away from the campsite and when Morgan, Dandi and I showed up, Rachael, the son, Zar Zar, Zin Zin and May were all splashing around and having a great time. The bottom of the river was as rocky as Russian River, if not more so, so I decided to leave on my hiking sandals. It was a good thing too because there were logs on the bottom of the river and I know I would have freaked out if my feet had touched them. So I stripped to a bikini top and shorts that I borrowed from Rachael and jumped in the water. And by jumped I mean tried to slide off this log, where I had been sitting talking to Morgan, only to have the shorts catch on one of the tree knobs before having to frantically ask Morgan to unhook me. Not my best moment.

So anyway, I’m in the water and it is cold. Super cold but it feels absolutely fantastic. Not as fantastic as it would have felt if I could have jumped in halfway during the hike when I was absolutely melting but great, all things considered. The BWU ladies all went swimming in their clothes. Burmese people are quite modest—when they take a shower, they have this long tube dress that wraps around them and it gets soaking wet. I still haven’t quite figured out how they can scrub themselves if they have to keep the cloth from sticking to their skin, but I figured it would be too weird of a question to ask. The water wasn’t very deep—when I was standing it would only go halfway up my chest, so I squatted and waded around. There were too many bushes and trees to actually swim laps but I just wanted to be cold and didn’t have any desire to do more exercise. There were a few very small drop-offs where you could sit before the water continued down the creek and I sat upon one of those for a while. Zar Zar doesn’t know how to swim so she wore her life vest the whole time. She looked really funny but seemed to be enjoying herself. Morgan had forgotten a swimsuit back in the US so she just sat on a log and got her feet wet. I went over to talk to her after a little bit only to notice there was A GIANT SPIDER ON THE LOG. GIANT. GIANT. GIANT. Ok so its body was probably only the size of half of my pinky finger but it had super long legs. I freaked out and I wanted it to drown, so naturally I splashed water on the log to make it fall in. That was a bad idea because that made the spider crawl towards Morgan. She immediately commanded me to not do that again and she took care of the spider by splashing it in the opposite direction. Unfortunately, it turns out it was a water spider and could swim (which is just evil, why do water spiders exist?!). Very very shortly after finding that spider, I realized I was starting to get cold and that it would be a good idea to get out of the water and back to the campsite.

The backpack I brought to Thailand is quite small. It zips onto my rolling luggage, which is fantastic because when we are traveling between places, I can just zip it on instead of having to carry it on my back, but the downside is that it is small. I wasn’t able to fit much into it to take to the waterfall, so I opted to leave a towel back in Mae Sot. I didn’t mind air-drying! (I thought) I’m tough (I am!). It really wasn’t a huge problem at the creek because I just borrowed Rachael’s but it did turn out to be a problem at the refugee camp. I put on some dry clothes and settled down for a nice dinner of instant ramen >..:l We did make it down safely and in one piece though so that’s all that mattered in the end. I’m not entirely sure how we did it—how we all managed to make it down without so much as a scratch but we did it! The bikers had to make two trips to get us all down there so Naw Lay Dee, Zin Zin, Dandi, Morgan and I played blackjack while we waited for the second group. Apparently Rachael and Morgan had taught them the day before while they were waiting for us at the campground but they didn’t go so far as to teach them the “betting” aspect because we just went around in a circle, grabbing cards and trying to get to 21. It wasn’t the most exciting card game I’ve ever played but it was fun just sitting in the jungle playing with these Burmese ladies. I highly doubt I will ever have that experience again. 🙂

About an hour later (it was a 25 minute bike ride each way, averaging 40 km/hr), the others arrived and we hiked the remaining thirty minutes through the jungle (off road) to get back to the rafts. Our rafters were all ready for us and we disembarked shortly. Earlier they had said it was only an hour raft ride away to get to the car that would drive us back to Umphang but it was actually three hours. These guys are not great about estimating time. Our raft must have been the special raft because we also had another mildly terrifying incident. No drowning thankfully but at the point where we were going over pretty serious rapids, a tree had fallen over (lucky us!) so we had to lay completely flat going over these rapids. One of the rafters lost his oar but we were going so fast we couldn’t stop so he could grab it. We also didn’t have oars besides the front guy so it was a lost cause either way. Apparently, we also almost flipped. I was in the back so I had my attention drawn to the rafter lunging after the oar and didn’t see that part where we almost flipped. Probably for the best. As you can guess, having two rafters but only one oar is pretty useless so we again, lurched onto a piece of spider-ridden bush while the two men went to go look for it. Ten minutes later, no luck, so they cut a piece of bamboo and made a makeshift oar. Our front rafter then switched with the other boats’ back rafter (I’m assuming because the other guy was more advanced and could handle having to do the majority of the steering). When we jumped on, he turned and screamed at us, trying to startle us. Well it worked. Our rafting guys were really weird.

Later, as we were floating along, Kway Soe turns to me and tells me that there are alligator-like animals in the water. I just stared at him. The thought had crossed my mind earlier, but I decided it was better not to know the answer. We tried to get him to clarify what he meant by “alligator-like” but weren’t able to get anything substantial (language barrier). We sat in silence for a couple more minutes and I was racking my brain for what creature he could be talking about besides a crocodile (he wasn’t pretty sure it wasn’t that). My mind turned to hippo and then I started praying there weren’t hippos in the river because hippos are so dangerous and terrifying. Yeah, well right when I was thinking that I look up and on the other piece of shore WAS A GIANT GRAY ANIMAL LAYING ON ITS SIDE. I freaked out. Legitally freaked out. “Oh my gosh there is a sleeping hippo over there we really are going to die now.” Thankfully, someone quickly noticed it was a dead baby elephant. Not much better but at least it wasn’t a hippo.

Two hours after losing the oar, we joined with another river and then saw a car! I was so excited to be on solid ground again (there were more bug incidents that I have blocked from my memory so I unfortunately, cannot recall them to you). We all piled in the truck. It was another one of those decked out pick-ups with benches in the back. I asked Kway Soe if this would be an easy ride and he said yes, it was very straight. Well it was paved but I wouldn’t say straight. The car was going, on average 90-110 km/hr speeding around huge curves (but not as bad as Death Highway). I thought I had survived all of my near death experiences but apparently not. I had to go through this insane car ride. Thankfully the road was paved or I don’t know what would have happened because there were multiple times we all screamed because the car was tilting to one side around a curve. To give you an idea of how much faster we were going than we were supposed to be going, the trip should have taken us 45 minutes. We did it in under 30 minutes. Can you said lead foot? I made sure to scowl a little at the driver after thanking him.

Finally, we were back at the guest house and I was so so so thankful to be alive. So vey very thankful. Dandi turned on the A/C (our room was so stuffy) and I just plopped on my side of the bed and pulled out Harry Potter. I needed a distraction from the heat and all of the terrifying experiences I had just lived through. The other three girls decided to walk to 7/11 to get shampoo but I opted to stay behind. It was a good decision too because within minutes of them getting back, BWU decided it was time for dinner so they didn’t have time to rest at all.

We all piled back into Kway Soe’s truck and went searching for somewhere to eat. Morgan and Rachael really wanted Pad Thai. Zar Zar, however, was insistent that she get kuay tiew (pronounced ku tee oh), which is the Thai soup dish. Apparently you can get it 24/7 in Mae Sot and she was quite upset that no one seemed to have it in Umphang. We drove around for over thirty minutes looking for a restaurant—even driving to the next town over! It was ridiculous—if we could get it 24/7 in Mae Sot, why couldn’t we just wait a day and she could get it when we arrived tomorrow? Finally, she gave in and we found a place that served Pad Thai. I hadn’t eaten much Thai food before coming to Thailand because it’s usually very spicy and I don’t do spicy well at all. This dish was not spicy though and quite delicious. Rachael said it wasn’t as flavorful as the ones she has had in the US but I thought it was delicious.

After dinner, we headed back to the guesthouse and fell asleep pretty quickly. 7 am the next morning we were up and off to get back to Mae Sot. Thankfully, they let Rachael, Dandi and I sit in the cab (Morgan opted for the back) and it was a much more enjoyable ride. I didn’t really get carsick at all. I think it helped a lot being able to see where we were turning. The car ride back wasn’t too eventful. We seemed to stop more to take pictures than the first time though and I was getting a little annoyed and “just wanted to be back at BWU already!” I of course, only voiced my opinion to the other GROW members. 🙂 We also stopped at some random little market that was on the side of the road of one of the mountains. They got vegetables and nuts that we could have gotten in Mae Sot so maybe it was cheaper or maybe they are just crazy because they bought a lot that we had to carry for the rest of the three hours. This whole thing was pretty bizarre (as I’m sure you can tell).

We got back into Mae Sot around noon and stopped at this Burmese restaurant. They brought a lot of traditional food that we have had before and I scarfed it down. One interesting thing that Burmese people do (I’m sure others as well) is that they often eat soup with a meal even when it is blazing outside. I tend to think of only eating soup when it is cold so it warms you up, but here, you’re already melting and you have to eat soup! I don’t get it, haha, I really don’t. Noe Noe’s house (the one who set up the trip but couldn’t go) was really close by, so she stopped in and bought all the food for us. It was quite nice of her. I think she may have felt a little bad after talking to the other ladies and hearing how intense it all was. We dashed back to BWU in time to call our dad’s for the last bit of Father’s Day back in the US. I recounted the entirety of the story to both Mom, Dad and John (who was over making copies of the band banquet DVD). The rest of the day was spent doing laundry and then I went to the local teashop for an iced Thai milk tea and piece of chocolate cake. It was bliss. (I have since gone back and tried many different kinds of their cake—quite delicious).

The fifth Harry Potter had now been completed. I didn’t remember that Sirius died!!! I finished it two days ago and still am upset about that. I’ll get over it quickly though because the sixth one a waits! I’m thinking I will update this blog more about the internship activities once I’ve finished all seven books and Rachael and I are traveling afterwards. Now that I’ve read so many of them over here, I really want to finish all of them or I’ll have felt like I failed haha. I think it can be done though. Two in four weeks? No problem. I just did five in four weeks 😉

I love you all very much and I hope all of you who are going to the Wieting reunion soon have lots of fun! Just remember, if I was there, the spoon championship WOULD BE MINE!!!!!!!!!

Love,
Rachel

Well, I survived

Last weekend was insane. I have been putting off writing about it because a) it’s going to be a crazy long post and b) I’ve been avoiding thinking about all of the times I almost died (6 in all), but it is a rather amusing story (or at least that’s what John said). Anyway, here it goes.

Last weekend we went to the Thi Lo Su Waterfalls in Thailand. We being the four GROW interns and four BWU staff members (Zin Zin, Zar Zar, Mae, Naw Lay Dee) and Naw Lay Dee’s son. His name is rather complicated (I never caught it completely) and we were told just to call him “little son” in Burmese (since Naw Lay Dee also has an older son). Both names are rather complicated though so I’m just going to go with “the son” when I refer to him. Jo Su, our car driver, also came along with us to the waterfalls.

Noe Noe (BWU staff member who didn’t come with us but planned the trip) described these waterfalls as the biggest in the world, but they had never been surveyed, so it’s unconfirmed. The “never being surveyed part” should have tipped me off that something fishy was going down. I should have looked it up but I blindly believed her, and now that we are back, we can’t find anything anywhere that lists these waterfalls as exceptionally large.

At the time though, none of this mattered because the picture on the magnet that Zar Zar showed us was beautiful! We thought it would be a great adventure and nice to get out of Mae Sot for a bit. This is how the trip was described for us: driving for a couple of hours, spending the night at a guest house, and rafting/hiking the next day to reach the waterfall. The rest of Saturday and Sunday would be spent at the waterfall swimming around. Sunday afternoon we would head back to the river, raft, drive to the guest house, sleep over night and drive to Mae Sot Monday morning. That doesn’t sound too bad, right? Yeah well that’s what I thought and boy was I wrong.

We left BWU at 1 pm on Friday and all piled into the back of Jo Su’s pick-up truck. There are photos of the pick-up truck on GlobeMed at Whitman’s SmugMug account (the link is on the other blog). It’s basically your average pickup truck but in the bed there are cushioned benches drilled into the bottom and a metal railing that goes over the top. There is also a metal roof covering the rail so all in all not too bad. The benches aren’t the most comfortable thing in the world, but what can be expected, it’s the back of a pick-up?

Rachael, Morgan, Dandi, Zar Zar and I piled into the pick-up along with everyones’ luggage. Jo Su drove the truck, Naw Lay Dee (oldest camper) took the passenger seat and Mae, Zin Zin, and the son sat in the cab. They got it lucky. So we are in this pickup truck, all ready to go drive on the “Death Highway” for three hours (it actually took four). The road has been nicknamed, “Death Highway,” because a lot of men died constructing it in the ‘80s. This highway ultimately connects Burma and Thailand over a huge mountain range.

Even though the nickname originated in the highway’s construction, 50+ people die on it every year, so it’s not the safest road. You continuously drive up and down mountains on this incredibly curvy road (the turns were so sharp, it was ridiculous). I eventually had to stop looking forward at the curves because it scared me so bad to see what the truck was about to do. We drove along the Death Highway for 4 hours and it was miserable. I don’t normally get car sick and thankfully, didn’t actually throw up, but I’ve never felt so disoriented in a car before. Because the ride was so jerky, I had to clutch onto an overhead railing to steady myself and keep from sliding into Dandi (or off the edge into the road) but you can’t hold your hand above your head forever because you lose circulation. So every once in a while, I’d grab the bar behind me and hold on. Rachael got a great picture of us all bent over and I’m holding the bar behind me. The first hour I sat upright, but that really wasn’t jiving with my lunch, especially when I would glance over the edge and see the straight drop down into the valley hundreds of feet below if we went over the edge.

I decided clutching my stomach, bending over into my knees and praying that we would survive this car ride was the best way to go. And boy did I pray. The only time I stopped was when I drifted off to sleep for all of two seconds before being roughly awoken by driving over a pot hole, which shot me 3 inches straight in the air. After that unnerving experience, I forced myself to stay awake.

All in all, that car ride was the worst of my life. The one slightly positive memory I have is driving through this herd of cows. We were going pretty fast on the highway, all things considered (40-50 km), but at one point we momentarily slowed down. I was overjoyed because I thought we would keep going slowly but it turned out there was 10 cows blocking our way. They eventually moved but not quickly (glad to see that all cows are lazy regardless of country of origin). Thailand cows are also different from CA cows—they have one huge hump right behind their head. They kind of look like hunchbacks or fat camels. The best part about seeing the cows was that we had no idea why we were stopping until we passed them, turned around, and saw 10 cows staring at us.

Shortly after seeing the cows, it started pouring rain. I was very thankful for the covering over the trunk bed, but that didn’t help the rain that was pelting us sideways. Rachael and I were sitting on the edges so we pulled out our ponchos and covered ourselves. It was good too because when we took them off later, they were covered in this gross muddy water. >.< I’m not a fan of mud. Neither is Rachael.

There were also flaps on the sides of the railings that we could pull down to keep our backs from getting drenched. It was nice because it kept us dry, but it caused there to be significantly less fresh air in the back and everything started to smell like car exhaust. It was gross. That was another reason I decided to bend down…so I could breath my soapy smelling skirt instead of the exhaust filled air.

Four torturous hours later, we arrived at the guest house in Umphang. My legs were all wobbly and it was all I could do to keep myself from crying that we had made it safely. Scenarios kept rushing through my head of our car being thrown off the side of the mountain and then being stranded having absolutely no idea where we were. If I called authorities to come pick us up, I had no idea what mountain we were on or the real name of the Death Highway. Doesn’t sound much like me to not check that stuff out ahead of time but, you see, no one hear speaks or reads Thai. Granted we probably could have found something in English (and if I ever go on another adventure out of Mae Sot, I will definitely do my due diligence and find the English name).

Ok, so it’s 5 pm, we have just arrived at the guest house and when we walked in, I did cry. There were beds! Glorious beds! Not with mattresses but something very similar and I didn’t really care. I’ve been sleeping on the ground with a little mat for the past three weeks and while it’s not uncomfortable, I wouldn’t go as far to say that it was comfortable. There was also a toilet with a flush (!!!! BWU has a toilet bowl but no flusher), a SINK, and a shower with hot water! It turns out the water heater was broken and the best we could get was warm water, but I didn’t care. It was continuous water coming out of a shower head instead of buckets of water that you pour on yourself!

Rachael, Zar Zar, Dandi, Morgan and I were sharing a room. We all plopped down onto the three beds (2 people/bed) and passed out for a solid hour. I woke up in a daze, was very confused. I managed to stumble out of the room to our little balcony and find a bunch of bananas fairly easily though. The view from the balcony was gorgeous—we were looking out over this valley that was filled with green and brown fields. I gazed into the valley and munched on my bananas for a bit. They have mini bananas here, which are great! Much sweeter than long bananas—I definitely recommend the sweet ones if you see them in the US. Within the next 20 minutes everyone had awoken (except Zar Zar) and we decided to go get dinner. Everyone plopped back into the truck and we went to a Thai restaurant. I got chicken curry—it was quite good. I normally don’t like curry but this one was ok. It was basically chicken soup, and I drizzled the broth on top of my rice. There was also this communal soup that they got for us to share and I think I tried to eat bamboo. It didn’t work. I chewed and chewed before realizing whatever plant was in mouth wasn’t going to break down into something that I could swallow, so I ended up doing a Robert and spitting it back into my bowl.

After dinner, we went to buy food for the next two breakfasts, two lunches, and one dinner. Apparently, there are no stores that sell food near the Thi Lo Su Waterfalls. That should also have tipped me off that something was wrong, because if this was a tourist destination, there would have to be a store. Yeah, well, I’m pretty sure now that not many tourists go to these waterfalls >.> So guess where we went to buy food. Just guess. Please. In your head. DO IT. Ok, now that you’ve guessed something logical like a grocery store, be prepared for this. We got food for all of our meals at 7/11. They aren’t any better stocked with nutritious food here in Thailand than they are in the US. So yeah, I grabbed a couple bowls of dried ramen, bread, peanut butter, oatmeal cookies (THESE SAVED ME) and banana chips—equally as good as the oatmeal cookies but they caused me to have a bad dream (a monkey attacked my head because I inadvertently killed his monkey friend. The signal to jump on me was one monkey threw a bag of banana chips to another monkey).

Let’s just say we were all less than pleased to buy all of our food for the next day and a half at 7/11 but it looked like we didn’t have any other options. We were also in charge of carrying all of our own food, so I tried to grab stuff that I knew wouldn’t weigh too much.

300 baht later, I had all my food and was leaving the 7/11. We stumbled back into our guest house, I fell asleep quickly without taking a shower (I had taken one that morning and didn’t feel like taking another) and drifted into a shivering sleep until 6:15 am. Someone had left the AC on too high so it was FREEZING in the room, but every time I woke up, I was too exhausted to do anything about it. That and I was sleeping in a cocoon sleeping bag liner and had myself so tangled up that if I had tried moving to get to the AC switch, I would have fallen over.

AT 7 am sharp, we were all out of our rooms and on the way to the river where we would be rafting for the next 4 hours. To get to the river (which was only a 5 minute drive away), we piled into the back of some random guy’s pick-up. This one didn’t have benches though, so we were all literally sitting in the bed. I was very happy when the ride was over 5 minutes later. Rachael’s most memorable comment during the ride: “Well, looks like we are back on the farm!” 🙂

Before I know it, we have pulled up next to the river, have unloaded all of our stuff, and we need to start bagging everything in plastic. My backpack was incredibly small because it zipper attaches to the front of my suitcase, which was good because it fit into these tiny plastic bags. The other girls had more trouble, but luckily, I had brought extra large plastic bags (thanks, Mom). When we first drove up, there was only one raft and I was incredibly skeptical about all of us fitting inside. It was big but not big enough for 10 people and all of our stuff. Luckily, while we were fumbling around with our plastic, another truck drove up with a raft and you could hear everyone who didn’t know the second raft was coming (i.e. anyone who didn’t speak Burmese….i.e. the four of us) breath a huge sigh of relief. We piled into the rafts and at 8:30 am, pushed off from the riverbank. Each raft had two tour guides who were actually rowing/rafting the boat. My raft had the four GROW peeps and Jo Su (driver). The other raft had the four BWU staff members and the son.

It was a beautiful ride—my favorite part of the entire trip. It was completely silent and jungle was pristine. It felt like we were the only ones from miles around (and we probably were because we only passed one group of fishermen in the whole fours hours). I would say the rafting trip was absolutely perfect except there were jumping spiders. Ok, so some of them were called water skippers (which everyone on the boat was familiar with except me) but I would argue you could still call them spiders because they were creepy and had eight legs. Jo Su was sitting next to me in the back and was kind enough to kill whatever weird bugs flew into our raft next to me….there were a lot. I am glad Jo Su was there because I doubt I could have convinced the other girls to get rid of as many bugs as he did.

After a few hours of rafting, we pulled on the side of the bank and were going to visit a natural hot spring. It was wonderful—the first time I have felt hot water in weeks (not including soup). Everyone quickly scrambled in and the water was low enough that it only came to our knees. I considered getting my clothes wet but thought better of it because we still had a long road ahead of us. There were red ants everywhere that we had to step on to get to the bamboo bridge to get to the hot spring, so there was a downside to this mystical paradise. Definitely worth it though and I didn’t get any bites!

We then hopped back into the raft and continued on our way. Then, oh an hour or so later, our raft starts rapidly filling with water. I was sitting in the back of the boat and I could tell that one of the holes where they would add air to the bottom of the raft was deflating and letting water in. There was confused shouting in Burmese before we pulled off to the side of the bank. The other raft was in front of us by and bit and they couldn’t see/hear us anymore. Great. Jo Su tethered the raft to a tree and then the two tour guides got out and used this manual pump to add air back into the raft. The men took turns jumping on it and slowly but surely the raft inflated.

While they were concerned about our raft sinking…the four of us were diverting our attention elsewhere. When we had crashed into the river bank, several spiders had entered our boat from the surrounding bushes. Morgan had her hands full as she is the only one ok with bugs (but not snakes) and there was a spider massacre in the front of the raft. I was almost ready to jump ship and float down the rest of the river, but then I realized that there were probably creepier things than spiders swimming down there—I just couldn’t see them because the water was so muddy.

Ten minutes later, we were back on the way to the waterfall. When we passed the BWU boat, Zar Zar goes “We were worried about you!” In my head I responded sarcastically, “Yeah we were pretty worried too.”

The next stop on the rafting trip was this piece of bank that was kind of like a beach where we stopped for lunch. There must have been some miscommunication because BWU had bought all of us fried rice for lunch so one of my ramen noodle cups wasn’t necessary; however, I was very glad they did because the ramen noodles wouldn’t have given me enough energy for what was about to happen. We hurriedly ate lunch on the bank, at which time, someone told us that if we were not going during the rainy season, there would be a car at this point to pick us up and drive to the waterfall. Unfortunately, because of all the rain, the Thai government decided to shut down this road so cars were not allowed to take tourists to the waterfall. Major major bummer for us. When we were hiking, Zar Zar kept saying, “Oh we really are so unlucky.” Yeah, unlucky, or rather cursed to live a day of utter misery.

Ok, I’ve alluded to this mysterious hike enough times, it’s time to just get down to it. Let me clarify a few things about myself in case they haven’t been clear already.

  • I hate bugs. End of discussion.
  • I do not consider myself an outdoors person. Don’t like dirt.
  • I have never enjoyed hiking and still cannot understand why people do it for fun.

Now that that’s established, time to tell you about the last hike of my life. About an hour after lunch, we stopped on the side of the river bank. Let me tell you, it looked just like all the other bushes and trees that we had seen so far. I wondered out loud how anyone could possibly tell how this piece of riverbank was where we needed to stop to get on the trail and Raachael pointed to a tiny sign up in a tree in Thai. So, I guess if you knew you were looking for a sign up in a tree, you would know where to stop, by otherwise forget it. It was at this point that we decided the only tourists who go to this waterfall must have local tour guides. There’s no way you would have survived that raft ride and the following hike because all the signs were in Thai. Our tour guides were Burmese but I am guessing that they have done this enough times that they have the way memorized. I tried to ask Jo Su how many times our raft paddlers had gone to the waterfall before (to check out their qualifications). I didn’t get a straight answer but it sounded like these guys had done this many times before. Oh also, when we were pulling up to the riverbank, a giant tree climbing spider full of awfulness jumped into the water. It was terrible. Bigger than my fist and black and yellow. I scrambled out of that raft so fast. I hadn’t seen where the evil bugger went and I did not want to look down and see him on my foot.

Three of the raft rowers stayed with the rafts overnight and were going to wait for us to come back the following day. One of the rafters came along with us as a tour guide. He looked more Thai to me than Burmese but he could have been Burmese. The differences in ethnic group appearances are huge across Burma. Palaung and Karen people don’t look alike at all and their areas border each other.

So we are hiking, it’s been 5 minutes and I turn to Zar Zar and ask the distance to the waterfall. She nonchalantly responds, 22 miles. MILES. I stopped walking and just stared at her. 22 MILES. ARE YOU JOKING ME? That’s next to impossible! How are we going to hike 22 MILES in three hours?!??! YOU SAID THE HIKE WAS ONLY 3 HOURS!!!!! I was seriously considering joining the rafters for the night. We argued about it for a bit before Jo Su said it was only 6 km. Turns out it was actually 9 km but hey, he was only 3 km off.

After 30 minutes, we stopped hiking through the jungle and ended up at a road. The road the car would have driven down if it wasn’t the rainy season. We regroup—it was bloody hot—and Naw Lay Dee (who I’m guessing is in her late 40s) gave some of us her stuff so she wasn’t carrying as much. She was having a hard time hiking. It also didn’t help that she was wearing super flimsy sandals. At this point, we split into two groups. The raft leader, Rachael, Morgan, Zin Zin, Mae and son went ahead and Dandi, Jo Su, Naw Lay Dee, Zar Zar and myself stayed behind. I wanted to make sure Naw Lay Dee was going to be ok and I did not feel like hiking quickly. It was hot and humid and we were pretty high up (so add in altitude). We start climbing this mountain on the road and it was the steepest road I have ever seen. For those of you have been to Russian River, think of that one super steep hill that you have to climb to get to Grandma’s cabin and imagine walking up that continuously for 4 hours. It was awful. So steep. And awful. Mostly just awful. And it was all uphill. There wasn’t any downhill until the very end.

Naw Lay Dee was having to stop every 30 seconds and rest for a minute or two before she regained her breath and could keep walking. I was really worried about her. I knew there was no way she was going to be able to get to the waterfall and we really weren’t going to get there before it got dark if we were having to stop every 30 seconds. Fortunately, a motor bike rider drove past us after we had been hiking for only 10 minutes and Zar Zar asked him if he could take Naw Lay Dee to the waterfall. Thankfully he agreed and Naw Lay Dee was set. I felt so much better and was so envious that she didn’t have to walk. In hind sight, we should have given her stuff to carry with her but we stupidly didn’t and ended up carrying the stuff all 9 km. My backpack was pretty light but I was also carrying Jo Su’s small bag because he was carrying all of Naw Lay Dee’s stuff.

So we hiked. And hiked and hiked and it was so miserable. When I finally took my backpack off at one of our resting points about an hour in, the back of my shirt was just drenched in sweat. I’ve never sweated so much in my life and I never intend to again. It was disgusting. Sweat would pour down my forehead and I just didn’t care at all. I was super thankful that I decided to wear my hat instead of my sunglasses because it kept my scalp protected. It also hid a lot of how much I was sweating.

After we had been hiking for two hours, Jo Su and Zar Zar exclaimed, “hey! we’re almost there! Just 300 more meters!” I was so excited, I could hardly contain myself from running ahead. Well, there was a translation issue because when we had definitely gone more than 300 meters and saw no waterfall, Jo Su was all like “Oh, it’s actually 3 km.” I wanted to hit him. Got my hopes up for nothing. Also, turns out he is not a very good judge at distance because we were NOT 3 km away, we were 6 km away which would take another 2 HOURS because it was so hot.

When Jo Su said we were 3 km away, we were by the 19 km post so I just set my sights on seeing the 22 km marker. Dandi and I split away from Zar Zar and Jo Su (Zar Zar had a wheely backpack and it took her a while to drag it along) and when we got to 21 km I wasn’t excited but relieved to know that we were almost done. Well. We got to the 22 km marker and THERE WAS NO WATERFALL. All we could see was more road. I was incredibly unhappy but Dandi and I were going at a good pace so we decided just to keep going and not dwell on the fact that we had no idea how much longer we had to hike. Pretty soon, another motor biker drove past and raised three fingers at us. I called after him asking if he meant 3 more km and he nodded his head. That’s when I lost it. I was so delirious from the heat that I started laughing and crying at the same time. How could this possibly be happening to us?!?! 3 MORE KM. I wasn’t going to last another step. But I did and we eventually go there. Dandi and I had some pretty interesting conversations though that I think you may enjoy.  🙂

Dandi: “Ugggg why are they making us do this? I would never make my guests do this!”

Rachel: “This is torture. That is all this is. Who goes hiking for fun?! This is what Hell must be like.”

Dandi: “This is homicide.” Rachel: “No, Dandi, suicide, we chose this.”

Dandi: “Something really good better happen to us because we didn’t do anything to deserve this!!!”

Dandi: “This is what they must make inmates in prison do.”

Rachel: “They probably don’t even make inmates walk up mountains without doing any kind of manual labor.” (again, dwelling on the fact that people hike for fun)

Those are the memorable conversations that I remember we had. I also had some interesting conversations in my head. See, before we came to Thailand, we had to buy travelers’ health insurance—which comes with medical evacuation if necessary. So after the motorbike rider told us we still had 3 km to go, I started plotting ways that I could use my medical evacuation insurance to get out of hiking the same distance the following day. There was absolutely no way that my feet were going to tolerate that. Here’s the conversation from my brain….

“I wonder if they medically evacuate you if you say you have swollen feet. Probably not. I probably will have to lie and say I sprained my ankle. Maybe they’ll just tell me to wait a few days. I’m really going to have to mess something up. It can’t be that hard to break an ankle. Maybe I’ll just jump off a small waterfall and mess up my foot and then they’ll have to evacuate me.”

I know that sounds insane, but I was seriously trying to figure out a way to break my ankle so I wouldn’t have to hike the following day. It was so hot and humid—my body was not going to do this hike twice. After trying to decide whether it was worth it to break my ankle, I came up with a list of options of how to get out of hiking the same distance the following day. This is what I came up with:

  • Demand we get motor-biked back to the raft. Clearly there are people who live around the waterfall because we have seen multiple motor-bikers. Just get BWU to ask them to take them us and we’ll pay for it. I’ll pay a lot of money for a motor-bike ride.
  • Lie to the medical insurance people.
  • Break my ankle.

I really didn’t want it to come to come to the third option, but it was definitely an option. This conversation was going on in my mind when I was still confident that I would make it to the campsite. After 3.5 hours, I was no longer confident that my feet were going to take me that far. The extra bag from the car driver was really starting to weigh me down, and the straps of my Chacos were getting super tight around my big toe. I finally had to tell Dandi I needed to try to do something about the strap. It took a lot of pulling, but I finally was able to readjust my Chacos, which had become very hard to move because the sweat had dried the straps in place. When I was adjusting my Chacos, I considered just spending the night on the side of the road. The group would have to pass by me tomorrow and I really didn’t even care about this waterfall now. I figured, if you have seen one, you have seen them all. However, while I was sitting in the middle of the dusty road fixing my straps, munching on an oatmeal cookie, I heard something relatively large rustling in the bushes next to me. Now I hadn’t educated myself on what animals were native to the region, but I had no desire to find out by meeting one as it was trying to eat me. It was a nice boost of energy. Dandi was quite surprised as I bolted upright and started hiking fast because I had been sitting for at least 10 minutes fixing my shoes.

Eventually, and I mean eventually, we were getting close. Someone else passed us on their motorbike and they said that we were only 1 km away. I was hesitantly excited because at this point, I didn’t believe anyone’s judge of distance. I had already been lied to twice earlier (22 miles and only 3 more km). Zar Zar had gotten about 2 minutes ahead of us at some point and the guy who told us that we were only 1 km away ended up giving her a ride to the campsite. I had considered asking him but since he couldn’t take both me and Dandi, I didn’t think it was fair but ZAR ZAR GOT MOTORBIKED THE LAST BIT. She seemed pretty embarrassed when I asked later but not apologetic at all.

See the problem was that when she decided to take the motorbike, that left no one in front of me and Dandi. Jo Su was about five minutes behind us because he had to stop frequently as he was carrying the food for all the BWU people and Lay Dee’s stuff. Dandi and I got to a fork in the road and all the signs were in Thai. Nothing said “waterfall” and there was no indication from the other group about which way we were supposed to turn. I was ready for a break anyway so I plopped down and told Dandi we should wait for Jo Su. If we went the wrong way, how would we possibly know that we had gone the wrong way…we would just think that we hadn’t arrived yet.

At this point I had had a lot of water that day and I really needed to go to the bathroom. I couldn’t wait until we got to the campsite (as I didn’t have a clear idea about how far away we were) so I had to go in nature. Another reason I don’t like camping. Going to the bathroom in the woods sucks big time. I walked down one of the roads a bit but was too scared to walk into the jungle because of the relatively large thing I had heard earlier and because there were big spiders everywhere. So I found a log, sort of squat next to it and gross. It was terrible. I hate camping. Toilets are a necessity. Absolutely. And not these squat toilets everyone has in Asia. Real toilet bowls with flushes.

An unhappy Rachel returned to Dandi a minute later and we kept sitting waiting for Jo Su. I looked down and guess what was crawling all around me?! Red ants. Fantastic. At that point, I just didn’t care so I sat on my backpack, which was holding all my stuff and figured if red ants were persistent enough to climb up on it to bite me, they deserved it (they weren’t that persistent thank heavens). Jo Su finally arrived and told us to go to the right. We asked if he was sure and he said yes. We asked again and he didn’t look as confident but told us to go anyway. So Dandi and I head off while he rested and while we were still in ear shot, he called us back and told us we were going the wrong way (he had asked a passing motorbiker). If I had more energy, I would have punched him for making me walk extra steps that weren’t necessary, but I was too tired. Grudgingly, Dandi and I walked back and went the other way. He soon joined us. At one point, there was a turn that definitely looked like we should take because there was a pole to keep cars from entering when the park was closed, but Jo Su told us to keep going straight. I was ready to argue with him, but again, too tired, just wanted to sit in a shelter or whatever.

Miraculously, Dandi, Jo Su and I arrived at the campsite. It was a concrete open shelter with tables. I threw my bag pack on a table, unstrapped my sandals, put my feet up, and starting to laugh/cry again. I was so happy to finally be at the campsite.

And that’s where I will stop for now. In the first half of the journey, I could have almost died 3 times (Death Highway, Sinking Raft à eaten by something in the river, Heat exhaustion from hiking or eaten by some animal). This is quite long, I apologize. I want to make sure I remember this weekend in the future though, so I’m trying to be as detailed as possible for myself 🙂 I’ll continue the rest tomorrow, but as for now, I’m going to go read the 5th Harry Potter! I’ve already read 1-4 on this trip 🙂

I am still so thankful that I survived this weekend. While I would like to say it gets better after arriving, it really doesn’t. There were more terrifying instances when I was sure that I was going to die. All I can say is that God must have been looking over me last weekend. 🙂

Markets Galore :)

This weekend we decided to hang around in Mae Sot instead of traveling elsewhere and I definitely think we made a good choice. Part of the reason is because next weekend we are planning on going to this huge waterfall that is quite a distance away and is going to cost 11 people roughly 1100 baht per person to go (US $37) which includes food, transportation, and lodging. I’m really excited to go and all of the BWU staff members in Mae Sot will be coming too, which will be loads of fun. They don’t have the opportunity to travel much and none of them have ever seen this huge waterfall. They’re just as excited as we are to go!

On Saturday, we woke up rather late. I think I slept in until almost 9 am but I was battling my mosquito net for the last three hours. It usually stays on until around 4 am. If I’m feeling up to it, I get up and re-tuck it in, but usually I just tuck it in more around my head so it doesn’t touch my face. Since Dandi has arrived, the four of us have split into two rooms. Morgan and I are sharing a room because we are the night owls and Rachael and Dandi are sharing the other. This morning, Morgan woke up early and went with Zar Zar to a vegetarian market and she said that I’m quite funny in the morning because I kept thrusting my arms in the air hitting my mosquito net. She said I looked really unhappy but she couldn’t stop laughing. I can only imagine how I looked. When Rachael was still in our room, she also took a picture of me sleeping (you have a friend, Robert) and I had wrapped my sleeping bag liner up over my head. She said I looked like a caterpillar in a cocoon waiting to become a butterfly.  I had pulled the liner over my head because the light was waking me up and the liner was dark blue and keeps out the light. That and I like to be completely covered when I’m asleep.

After waking up, the four of us tootled around the office until 11 ish and then we made our way into Mae Sot. We decided to go on foot because Mae and Zin Zin might need the motorbikes to make book deliveries to local factories. I almost like walking better when we are exploring because I see a lot more than just on the motorbike. We walked all over Mae Sot. It may be a smallish city but there are still plenty of alleys filled with markets and shops to tour around. We must have been in a very ethnic market at one point because there were bowls of creatures slithering around, caged bunny rabbits, and live turtles. Dandi said you cut off the head and eat it. I did not do well in that market and tried to get away as fast as I could. We did leave rather quickly because it was very crowded and apparent there wasn’t anything any of us wanted to buy. We kept walking for a bit more on this main street (I have no idea what it is called) and apparently it is one way (didn’t notice that until Rachael pointed it out) and curves around for the other way when you get to the end of it. Near the curve is the restaurant we ate at last Friday with GlobeMed at Emory. You can tell the shop, Borderline Collective, is tailored towards Westerners though. For starters, the only people ever there are white (which is a rarity in Mae Sot) and they have all the items you would expect a Westerner to bring back from Thailand. Over the shoulder bags, coin purses, notebooks, hand beaded bracelets—essentially anything. It is a little pricey though because they work as a fair trade collective and support women’s groups in refugee camps. Later in June we will actually be going to the Mae La Oo Refugee Camp and I was just planning on buying most of my gifts there directly 🙂

We decided not to eat lunch at Borderline Collective because Rachael and Morgan really wanted Thai food. All the food we have been eating so far has been Burmese with rice and I can tell they are itching for noodles. I’ve actually only had Thai food once before coming over to Thailand, so I don’t really know what to expect. All I know is that it is spicy which is why I have avoided it in the US. We found a restaurant close to Borderline Collective and ordered our food. I got chicken and rice with some basil sauce (as did Dandi) and Morgan and Rachael got papaya salad. The papaya salad over here is incredible—definitely one of my favorite dishes. The waitress asked me if I wanted my dish spicy and I said only a little little bit because I can handle a tad bit of spiciness, but I should have known the local opinion of hot food and mine are not the same.

I had trouble with my dish and drank a ton of water. The hotness was mostly chili peppers, which made my eyes tear and nose run. Rachael pointed out which ones were the peppers, so for the second half of the meal I did a little better. I have learned my lesson though. When they ask if I want it spicy I say no, just no. Lunch was 35 baht (a little of US $1) and then we headed across the street to another fair trade shop. This one was very similar to Borderline Collective but their prices were significantly lower. We ended up getting three coin purses and three pencil bags to sell at Whitman for a fundraiser. They were all beautiful and it was hard to decide which to get, but I think these will sell well. I’m in charge of collecting US $100 worth of goods to sell back at campus, which is a little stressful, but it isn’t like there isn’t enough stuff to buy here. It’s just trying to make sure that we buy stuff people will want. I’m not sure if this is just the way it is when you travel with a group of people your own age (I feel like this is similar to my experience in Italy during high school) but it is very difficult to get anyone to make a decision about anything.

“Are you hungry? Do you want to eat now?”

“I’m fine either way.”

“Should we buy these coin purses to sell at Whitman?”

“Yeah we could or I’m sure we could buy some elsewhere.”

Indecision drives me insane (as Mom knows quite well) but I don’t want to appear too bossy. With regards to the supplies for Whitman, I think the others are indecisive because they don’t know either and I’m in charge of the money so ultimately I have to make the decision. I think I found a good compromise though. At this fair trade shop, I decided we should buy three coin purses and three pencil bags and then let the other three pick the ones they liked. It worked out well.

After we ate lunch and got some supplies for Whitman, we stopped in the Hong Long Market (essentially a grocery store) and picked up snacking supplies. Our shopping list including whole wheat bread, oatmeal, candy (English lessons can be quite draining), Oreos, spearmint gum, mouthwash, and mosquito repellent. We weren’t in there for very long, but by the time we had finished it was pouring outside. Not that I minded. It was so hot earlier. I almost wish for rain all the time. When it rains, it cools down by about 10 degrees. Plus I don’t have to take a shower later. I really dislike showering here. Even if I am really hot, the cold water always gives me goose bumps. Plus, we are all pretty sure we get the majority of our mosquito bites in the bathroom (because the shower water and water to flush the toilet just sits in tubs). I use the desire of not wanting to get mosquito bites as an excuse not to shower frequently. Once every couple of days is fine. When it gets to the point where I haven’t brushed my hair in a few days and it’s in knots, I go take a shower so I get the knots out with conditioner—it hurts less.

At Hong Long Market, the rain was pouring pretty hard and we were at least a 30 minute walk from BWU (and we hadn’t even picked up fruit yet!) so we decided to find a tea shop to sit it out. Sometimes the rainstorms don’t last long, sometimes they do. You can guess what kind of day it was haha. Rachael really wanted bubble tea (milk tea with tapioca pearls) and so did I, so we were on a hunt for a store that sold it. It didn’t take long and a few blocks away from the Hong Long market we found one! It was called Mr. Buzz. Our milk tea was 30 baht (only $1! Can you imagine getting bubble tea for $1 in the US? It just doesn’t happen 😦 Tapioca Express is $4). I thoroughly enjoyed mine and wish the shop was closer to BWU. There has to be somewhere else that also says bubble tea. The one tea shop we have found that is right around the corner makes great iced tea for 35 baht but alas, no tapioca pearls. We sat in the store for about 30 minutes (it had air conditioning—a rare luxury!) before deciding the rain wasn’t going to let up. It really wasn’t raining that hard though so we made the trek back along the road (sidewalks don’t really exist) to BWU. I only got a little wet and we stopped by the fruit stand close to BWU. We considered going back to the market with snakes in bowls because it was 20 baht cheaper per kilo, but I had no idea how to get back there and I was tired and just wanted to get back to the office.

We got back to BWU around 3 pm, so we had a nice 4 hour trip! It was great to see more around Mae Sot. There are so many markets where you can buy food—it’s incredible. It’s also very possible to just find random fruit sellers in between stores. Mangosteens are my favorite at the moment but mini bananas are great too. We bought two kilos of mangosteens yesterday and I just went to go grab one as a snack and they are all gone 😦 Oh well, I’ll just go tomorrow afternoon and get some more.

We got back to BWU and relaxed until 5:30 pm when Zar Zar came to take us all to the Burmese Saturday Night market. It was pretty close but now that we have four of us, one motor bike needs to have three people. Since Dandi and I are the skinniest (but only by a little) they have the three of us ride with Zin Zin who is an excellent driver. Dandi goes in the middle (because she is definitely the smallest and I ride the back. I prefer the back because I can hold the handle bar thing and because we have made it work so we can both share the footrest, it’s really not a problem.

At the Saturday evening market, they had all kinds of food and dirt cheap clothes. Like $5 for shirts and skirts. I didn’t end up buying any clothes but Zar Zar bought one tank top and Rachael bought a Totoro stuffed animal. As for food, Dandi and I split 4 Japanese vegetable ball things (there may have been meat—I couldn’t tell) and I also got a corn on the cob and candied tamarind. We were all under the impression that the Saturday market was dinner so I grabbed some papaya salad too but when we got back to BWU, Zin Zin and Mae wanted to make us dinner. We told them we were fine with our market food. They had papaya salad too, so they didn’t have to cook for the night. Oh, I forgot! We also bought pancake mix at Hong Long Market. They’ve never had an “American” breakfast before so we are planning on making pancakes and bacon for lunch one day. We forgot syrup though so we’ll have to get that before pancake day. I’m excited! Not entirely sure what they are going to do without rice for a meal though 😉

I spent most of that evening in Morgan and my room reading Water for Elephants. I ended up getting really into it though and stayed up until 11:15 pm reading it. I really enjoyed the ending. Mom downloaded the third Harry Potter for me today though and I had to tear myself away to write this blog post 🙂

One last event that happened before I fell asleep on Saturday. I am not sure if I have mentioned this, but our neighbors have this black cat with three kittens. The kittens are adorable but absolutely terrified of humans (i.e. us). They usually just hang around the food area and Zar Zar slips them some treats but yesterday I came upstairs and I saw this flash of white and black dart towards my room. I went and grabbed Morgan to tell her the kittens had made it upstairs. We went looking for them and figured it had just gone downstairs but I thought it wise to check Rachael and Dandi’s room first. I turn on the light and while I don’t find a kitten (right away), Mama Cat is chilling in the middle of their rug. Morgan and I just start laughing and we try to shoo her away but she could care less about us. I’m pretty sure she has fleas so I didn’t want to pick her up (I also didn’t want to get bitten) and we eventually convinced her to leave. The three kittens were cowering behind the desk and were really upset they were too big to fit through this one crack towards the door. I ended up moving the desk and they all sped out, falling as they were turning because their feet couldn’t get a firm hold on the floor. I had a good laugh and thought that was the end of the cat fiasco.

But then, 10 minutes later as I’m sitting in my room reading, I look up and a kitten has poked its head into my room. I tell it to get back downstairs but then get up to make sure it has gone. When it looks like the coast is clear, I check Rachael and Dandi’s room one last time and this time Mama Cat is sitting next to Rachael’s pillow, on her sheet and bed mat and the kittens are running laps around the room. I was very done with them and needed them out because Dandi is allergic to cats. It was more difficult but I eventually got Mama Cat to move before Rachael came in. Just as Rachael and Dandi walked in, I was scooting out the last of the kittens. Now we shut the back door (I also shut the door to my room).

That was all for Saturday. I just got off a call with Mom and Dad so I will sleep now and write about the wedding we attended today (Sunday), tomorrow.

With love,

Rachel (MOSQUITOES LOVE MY FEET. I HATE IT. PLEASE TRY TO TELEPATHICALLY TELL THEM TO LEAVE MY POOR FEET ALONE!!!!)

Zar Zar’s Pets!

Hello again 🙂 I apologize for not writing more this week. I have been spending most of my time working on GlobeMed at Whitman’s official blog for the summer internship in the evenings. If you aren’t currently reading it, I highly recommend you do. I’m quite proud of how we are getting a mix of good information about the situation for Burmese migrants in Thailand as well as fun adventure that we are having. The link for that blog is http://globemedatwhitman.wordpress.com/. When I originally started this blog, I had intended it to be for just the fun stuff that I have encountered and leave the heavier and more serious stuff for the Whitman blog. I spent a bit of time the last few days researching Thai labor laws and rights for Burmese migrant workers and would be most pleased if you all read that.

This week has been insane. I never know what day of the week it is and it doesn’t help that I wake up each morning quite disoriented. I’ve always had very vivid dreams and 4/7 nights a week I know exactly what I had been dreaming the night before. I don’t know why but the first week here I had very anxiety filled dreams and would wake up tangled in my mosquito net. That’s one thing I wish I could live without. This stupid mosquito net. I always wake up with it gobbling me up and I don’t want to rip it so I’m super careful to unfold myself but when you are hot and sticky because you are in Thailand, it doesn’t always work. I’ve been trying different ways to secure the bottom but so far nothing is working. I’m also a very light sleeper and toss and turn a lot, which doesn’t help the mosquito situation. All things considered though, I haven’t gotten sick, did not have jet lag, and have not encountered very spicy food, so getting tangled in a mosquito net is hardly something to complain about.

Here’s a quick recap of my week:

Monday: Visit to the Child Development Center from 9-11 am; English lessons 1-3 pm

The English lesson time is taken very liberally here. I get the feeling that Noe Noe is forcing the other three to take English lessons and two of them would rather be doing other things because English is harder for them. They are improving astronomically though and I think we are finding funner/more fun (Marisa?) ways to spend the two hours. For example, now we watch an episode (or part of an episode) of Gilmore Girls at the end to practice listening to English. I have also started reading the first Harry Potter with Zar Zar.)

Tuesday: Visit to the Yaung Chi Oo Workers Association from 9:30-12 pm; English lessons 1:30-3:00 pm; Delivered library books to two local migrant communities 4:30-6:30 pm

Wednesday: Presentation about BWU 9:30-12 pm; English lessons 1:30-3 pm; Walked around Mae Sot, got some amazing mangosteen and peanut butter! 5-7 pm

Thursday: English lessons 9:30-11:30 am; Attend family planning discussion in a migrant community organized by BWU staff member Naw Lay Dee 1-4:30 pm; Attend opening art gallery at Borderline Exchange (tea shop) 6-7 pm; Yaung Chi Oo Workers Association 14th Birthday Celebration 7:30-8 pm (we didn’t stay long because they had already eaten dinner and we hadn’t and they were smoking, drinking, and playing karaoke); Dinner at an open Thai market 8-9:30 pm (we saw a cat on a roof! Lots of cute cats at this market.)

Friday: Visit to the Student Youth Congress of Burma 9:30-11pm; English lessons 2:15-4 pm (I think they were trying to get out of lessons because it was Friday but Zar Zar wanted to do them so Zin Zin and Mae reluctantly followed. They are all really enjoying Gilmore Girls. We have watched the first three episodes already!

We made blog posts about the Yaung Chi Oo Workers Association (me) and BWU (Morgan) if you want to check those out. Perhaps we’ll do one about the CDC school but I’ll definitely be doing one about the education system in Burma. I had the chance to sit down with Noe Noe Htet San for about two hours and we discussed all of the problems with the system and what she thinks needs to be changed. It’s all quite fascinating.

So that was my week, quite jam-packed. I also finished the second Harry Potter and am currently waiting for Mom to download the third one for me. I’ve read them all before but didn’t remember a thing so I thought it would be fun to read them again and it is! While I’m waiting for Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban, I am reading Water for Elephants. I’m hoping to make a list at the end of the summer of books the GROW interns read and perhaps seeing if anyone from our school can guess who read what.

One of my favorite memories from this week was our dinner at the Thai street market on Thursday. We were sitting around this table in a rather grimy area (there is no way we would have ever eaten there if it was a family vacation with Mom/Dad/Robert….some people (Mom/Dad) are quite picky about restaurants especially where we sit (Dad/Mom). Haha I’m just messing with you two (but actually). So we are sitting at this table and I know that Zar Zar really loves animals so I asked her to tell us about her pets. She has 3 cats and 4 dogs. It was a little bit difficult to follow her story because most of the pets have Burmese names but I think I got the gist.

When she lived in Burma (pre-2006), she had this cat called Po Ket (don’t know if the spelling is right but that’s the pronunciation). When she moved to Mae Sot to work with BWU, she decided to bring the cat with her because her mom was going to sell her and Zar Zar would have none of that. Then, one day her niece rescued two kittens from under a speeding car on the road and Zar Zar also adopted them. They’re orange tabbies 😀 As for the dogs, she found one on the side of the street and took her home and adopted her. I’m not sure how she decided which one to bring home because there are dogs everywhere around here. Two of them a local vet gave to her because their owners were treating them poorly and the vet knew Zar Zar would treat them well. And the last one I’m not really sure about but I’m pretty sure she found him on the side of the road as well.

I asked her if she let her dogs wander around outside or just left them in the street because we met them one day and they are gorgeous dogs—mixes between a golden retriever and a terrier (at least the two from the vet) and they looked nothing like the muddy dogs wandering around Mae Sot. She told us that the oldest dog can’t really see anymore and he doesn’t walk very good so he just hangs around the house and that she used to let the two younger golden labs out (one is named Honey…important for later). However, those two dogs would go bite any other dog they saw on the street so now she has to keep them all inside.

Now the one named Honey sounds like a hoot. He’s about three years old and Zar Zar’s mom spoils him rotten (she’s now in Mae Sot as well). She calls him “my baby” and fusses all over him. I’m sure he was born with his attitude but I can’t imagine Zar Zar’s mom’s coddling helped. This guy thinks he owns the roost. I’ll recreate our conversation. It seems a little sadistic when you just read the words but I swear it was truly funny when Zar Zar told the story.

Zar Zar: The other day Honey plucked out the feathers from a chicken.

Us: What? He plucked out the feathers?

Zar Zar: Yes. But he didn’t want to eat the chicken, he just wanted to pluck out its feathers. When I got home from work there were feathers all around the courtyard and a chicken without feathers.

Us: A bald chicken? You came home and there was a bald chicken?

Zar Zar: Yes.

Us: Was it your chicken?

Zar Zar: No, it was my neighbors.

Us: Wasn’t your neighbor mad?

Zar Zar: No. They are Burmese.

Us: (to ourselves) Oh because it makes it ok because they are Burmese.

Zar Zar: So I took the chicken and it was shaking it was so scared and I put it under my bed in a basket with a light. The next morning it was dead.

(Zar Zar said this without changing her tone of voice and just told us that is was dead like it was the most common thing in the world)

Us: Wait so the chicken died?

Zar Zar: Yes it was so scared from having its feathers plucked out.

Us: Has this happened before?

Zar Zar: Yes. And Baby (other dog) was barking the whole time but my mother and niece didn’t know what was going on. Baby is smart though and she knew.

So yeah, apparently dogs can pluck out a chicken’s feathers over here. It was such a bizarre story and something we weren’t expecting at all. This dog, Honey, also goes and pulls Po Ket (cat) down from bookshelves by holding onto its back legs and tail. Needless to say, Po Ket swipes Honey across the face but I guess she doesn’t get the idea or isn’t swiping hard enough because Zar Zar says Honey drags her down from bookshelves very often. Never wants to hurt the cat, just wants it to run and play.

It was a very good dinner conversation and it is so universal how people just love to tell stories about their pets. All three of us are animal lovers, you could tell, because we were soaking up all the stories. I know I’m hoping we get to go to Zar Zar’s house one day and play with her pets 😀

Dandi arrived today and it’s so good to have all the interns together. When I chose who I wanted to come to Thailand, I really picked people who I thought would work well together—not that it hasn’t worked with just the three of us because it has worked swimmingly—but I think Dandi provides a new dimension that we need within the group. We have another day off tomorrow (because it’s Saturday) and we are hoping to go find some Thai food for lunch! Can you believe it—I’ve been in Thailand a week and a half and have not had Thai food! Technically Thursday’s dinner was Thai but they were Burmese people cooking it so I’m not sure if that counts.

The girl with infinite mosquito bites on her feet 😡 Really. Of the all the places you could bite me.

Love,

Rachel

Our first day off!

This past Saturday and Sunday, we did not have work to do with BWU and were on “holiday.” You can tell that some of BWU’s English teachers have been British because they also refer to grocery carts as “trolleys.” I had a good laugh about that one and it turned out that one of Zar Zar’s teachers was from England. Morgan and Rachael have been consulting guide books while I have been taking care of GlobeMed business and there wasn’t many touristy activities listed in the Mae Sot area besides a spa, which we’ll definitely be hitting up later. We decided the best course of action would be to consult Noe Noe for advice. She discussed (in Burmese) with a couple other staff members before advising us to go to the local supermarket, Tesco Lotus. I happened to pick other interns with very similar tastes and interests to me because we were all revolted at the idea of spending the entire day in this supermarket giant (think Walmart). I tentatively asked if there were any local waterfalls we could visit and Noe Noe’s eyes immediately lit up and I could tell that she now knew what we meant by “fun activities.” After some discussion we decided on Saturday to visit the Border Market in the morning and the Mae Sot night market in the evening. For Sunday, we would be hiring a taxi driver for the day to take all six of us (Zar Zar, Suzy, Mae, Morgan, Rachael, and myself) to see waterfalls!

Sign out front the Border Market

Sign out front the Border Market

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Inside the border market. These stone trees are beautiful but it would be such a hassle to bring back…

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Another view from inside the border market.

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See what I mean about them selling everything?!

The Burmese border market was a bit away (~15 min. motorbike ride). In Mae Sot, we are approximately 6 kilometers away from the Thai/Burma Friendship Bridge (although there really isn’t anything friendly about how the Thai police officers treat the Burmese migrant workers, but more on that later) and the border market was very close to it. Practically on the Moei River. This market was huge and it reminded me of similar outdoor markets that I have seen in Barcelona. The market was covered by a roof and each stall had its own room as well (to prevent goods from getting wet in a rainstorm which is a very real possibility). There were about five rows of stalls and maybe twenty or so rows deep. It was massive. If there had been more people, I would have been quite claustrophobic but luckily there were only a few other individuals besides us walking around. This market had every kind of touristy gift you could ever imagine. There were purses, wallets, cheap jewelry (glass rings being 30 baht ~ 1 USD), tea, assorted candy, assorted dried fish, and so much more. I didn’t end up buying anything for myself but I did purchase some items to take back to Whitman. I came over with $100 (~2800 baht) from our fundraising to use to buy traditional Burmese items that we could then sell to Whitman students as a fundraiser. I purchased this traditional Burmese powder (thanaka) and the stone and piece of wood used to make the powder as well as these owls which are supposed to bring good luck to your house if you display them on a shelf in your living room. The owls were quite beautiful and we bought 8 thinking the Kappa Kappa Gamma sorority would especially like them because their symbol is an owl.

Burmese make-up (thanaka) as well as the stone and wood used to mix the water and powder together. We're hoping to have a Burmese cultural event at Whitman next semester where students have the option to wear thanaka.

Burmese make-up (thanaka) as well as the stone and wood used to mix the water and powder together. We’re hoping to have a Burmese cultural event at Whitman next semester where students have the option to wear thanaka.

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A traditional Burmese owl believed to bring good luck to one’s home. This little guy is about 3 inches tall. We also bought some with the colors inverted (mostly black with gold). Zar Zar says Burmese people really like gold, but then again, who doesn’t?

I really enjoyed looking around the market and had to keep myself from impulse buying a lot of items. This was the first real touristy market we had been to but we will also have the opportunity to buy items in the Mae La Oo Refugee Camp so I really only wanted to look on Saturday. Morgan ended up buying some tea and Rachael got this interesting candy. It isn’t very sweet (so not really my thing) but she likes it. It has Chinese characters on it but I don’t recognize any of them. It’s probably just a name anyway. After spending an hour or two in the market, we headed to Tesco Lotus, which is this huge supermarket. As I mentioned prior, i’s like Walmart but it also has small stores within it on the bottom floor. Noe Noe was telling me this afternoon how international companies, like Tesco Lotus, are destroying local Burmese shops inside Burma because shop keepers can’t keep up with their low prices. It reminded me a lot of what I’ve heard about Walmart in rural US towns and it really made me frustrated how these large corporations don’t think about the needs of the people they are serving. Yes, buying goods cheap is great but is it worth the cost of putting local shops out of business? I personally don’t think so.

My super spicy lunch. My eyes still water at the thought of it.

My super spicy lunch. My eyes still water at the thought of it.

These were on display at the food center in Tesco Lotus. It did not make we want to order food from their station. Granted, I didn't order, Zar Zar did in Burmese with one of the cooks.

These were on display at the food center in Tesco Lotus. It did not make we want to order food from their station. Granted, I didn’t order, Zar Zar did in Burmese with one of the cooks.

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The have escalators for carts! It was pretty awesome.

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We all got 10 baht ice cream from KFC! And let’s be real, who from the Dornan family ever turned down an ice cream cone, ever?

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This is where we ordered lunch in Tesco Lotus.

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Have I mentioned that everybody motorbikes here? Our neighbors have cars and it’s rather strange.

We grabbed lunch inside Tesco Lotus but everything was written in Thai. That goes for the whole city actually. All the street names are in Thai which makes it impossible to describe where I am living. There is a giant poster of a woman on one street corner but besides that, I have no idea. I’m also not sure why the woman is there or what she is selling (because it’s in Thai). This is completely understandable considering I am living in Thailand, but does make it difficult at times when neither we (GROW interns) nor BWU staff members read/speak an inkling of Thai. It is kind of fun though because I definitely feel like I am living in a foreign country. The food area that we purchased lunch from had displays of everything so I picked an item that looked similar to sizzling rice soup which is my favorite Chinese dish (ask anyone in my family). This however, was nothing like that soup. It was so spicy I was crying throughout the meal. It is no secret here that I can’t handle spicy food, and while Rachael didn’t think it was that spicy, I could only eat half before my taste buds couldn’t take anymore. I hadn’t had much for breakfast either so when I happened upon a Chinese mooncake in Tesco Lotus, I couldn’t help but buy it. It was also 5 baht (~15-20 cents).  After lunch, we wandered around the supermarket buying ingredients for our picnic lunch for Sunday. One thing that is definitely not different between the US and Thailand is how boring grocery stores are. I was miserable in the store. It didn’t help either that Suzy and Zar Zar didn’t know some of the food we wanted to buy (rice vinegar for sushi and peanut butter) so we wandered around in circles for what felt like hours. I was also really hungry and had to hold my mooncake without devouring it, so I wasn’t a happy camper. Eventually we got everything and were able to leave. I’ve never been happier to leave a grocery store in my life. We piled onto the motor bikes and were off to find this outlet store that was supposed to sell cheap cell phones. We already had one cell phone (Rachael brought an unlocked one over and we were able to purchase a SIM card for it in Bangkok) but one is really useless if you don’t have another one to call. If we ever decided to split up, we would really need two, so we were on the hunt looking for another one. This outlet was huge and we couldn’t find what we were looking for. Oh, a side note on language. While it is true that all signs are in Thai, everywhere we have gone there has been an individual who speaks Burmese that we (and by we I mean our Burmese staff friends) can communicate with. We may be in Thailand but I would venture to say there are more Burmese people living in this city than Thai people.

This was taken right in front of the phone store. We are not quite positive but are pretty sure this is what you would consider downtown Mae Sot. We are definitely living in a city, but the rural countryside is only a twenty minute cab ride away.

This was taken right in front of the phone store. We are not quite positive but are pretty sure this is what you would consider downtown Mae Sot. We are definitely living in a city, but the rural countryside is only a twenty minute cab ride away.

One sales representative suggested we go to this other store to buy a SIM card, so that was our next stop. We drove through the main market of Mae Sot, stopping in the middle of the street to buy avocadoes. While we were stopped, this little girl came up to me and tapped me on my thigh (while I was sitting on the motorbike). She pointed to her stomach and then to her mouth and looked at me with really sad eyes. It was so hard to see her. At the training I attended in Boston, the Director of Partnerships for GlobeMed said that internationally, parents train their children to go up to white foreigners and beg for food and money knowing they’ll feel guilty and shell out a few bills. Alyssa highly suggested we not do this because it perpetuates this stereotype and is not a sustainable solution to solving the world’s poverty problems. While I have to agree, this girl was just ripping out my heart. I didn’t give her money, which may haunt me, I’m not sure yet, but I made my decision and I’ll stand by it. I suppose I could have bought her a piece of fruit since we were right there. I may do that next time even though Alyssa advised us not too.

After buying the avocados, we went to the cell phone store. I wanted nothing more to do than sit on the motorbike and not have to enter another store, but when I saw that Rachael was having trouble, I knew I needed to go inside and see what was happening (being the team leader and all). It turned out that the shopkeeper didn’t have a SIM card that would work with her other phones and we would have to buy a new one. The cheapest was 700 baht (approx. $25 USD) and I decided to buy it. It really did seem pointless to only have one cell phone, especially once Dandi arrives and it may be possible to split into twos to walk around. And it was purple so how could I say no?

Finally, at 4:30 pm, we arrived back at BWU (we had left at 10 am that morning). We were all so exhausted. Morgan, Rachael and I plopped down at the table in front of the fan and Zar Zar, Mae, and Suzy lay on the floor, in front of another fan. We all sat in silence for awhile, munching on fruit before Zar Zar asked if we still wanted to go to the night market that evening. I really was content staying at BWU and after looking at Rachael and Morgan’s faces, I knew they were too. Suzy and Mae also looked pretty exhausted and I thought it would be best for all of us if we took the evening off. Everyone was quite relieved and we had a quiet evening back at the office reading Harry Potter, trying to connect to the internet that was not being cooperative, and eating delicious Burmese food. Suzy and Mae are really the best cooks. I love everything they have prepared. Eating a bowl of rice as the main part of every meal is starting to get to me though. I’m going to have to find pasta and marinara sauce soon, ha! Well, it turns out I had much more to say about Saturday than I had remembered. It’s a little after 11 pm here and I’m going to hit the hay. We get up around 7 am every morning and Rachael is usually asleep by 9 pm. Morgan is usually my night buddy with me but tonight she headed up at 8 pm—BWU is wearing us out! Haha no, I think a lot of it has to do with the heat, it’s completely draining.

Anyway, love you all lots and hope you are enjoying your June, I know I am. 🙂

With thoughts of chocolate (it all melts too fast here!),

Rachel

PS- Would someone please tell Big Grammie that I got an ice cream cone at KFC for 10 baht the other day (~33 cents)? Oh, and a watermelon for 35 baht, a little over 1 USD. Grandma would love it here!

Rain!

Rain!

There was a thunderous storm for about 15 minutes. I was hot and thought this sounded like a good idea! (it definitely was)

I’m learning how to motorbike!!! (I’m wearing a helmet but I bet most of you call Mom/Dad about this) :)

NB: After writing this post I was rather tired and didn’t reread for spelling errors. Will check tomorrow. My apologies to the grammar nerds.

Wow these past couple days have been such a worldwide! I can’t even begin to describe what a wonderful time I am having and how much I love spending time with the women at BWU. Earlier, we asked if it was alright to post photos of them online but looking back, I am afraid there may have been a translation slip and tomorrow am going to have one of the better English speakers double check that they aren’t trying to keep their identities hidden.

At BWU, Morgan, Rachael and I are living with two of BWU’s library interns. They live in the room next to us and are the best cooks. They make us lunch and dinner and while we try to help, we are clearly way out of our league. Traditionally Burmese food is incredibly spicy (like most Asian food), but they have been very kind to me (since I am no where near capable of eating spicy food) and pointing out which dishes I should avoid. I was hoping to keep my spiciness intolerance a secret for awhile but our first meal together foiled my plan. I happened to eat a green pepper corn and had to run out of the room to get water. On my way back down (we are living on the second floor) I could hear one of the women ask Rachael and Morgan if I was alright to which they responded that I was, just that I can’t handle spicy food. Ah, GROW interns, you know me so well.

Being that my dinners at Whitman usually consist of a green vegetable and plain pasta with parmesan cheese, I am probably not the most qualified to tell you about Burmese dishes but I’ll describe some of our meals. For breakfast the two BWU interns eat fried rice and this morning they made some for us! I also had a frozen banana (it was wonderful considering how hot it is) and some coffee. I generally don’t like the taste of coffee but the instant stuff they have here is great! I am not jet lagged at all so I don’t need the coffee to keep awake, I’m just starting to like the taste. (uh oh!) For lunch we have a bowl of white rice and then 3-4 dishes. I honestly can’t remember what we ate for lunch today other than that it was delicious and there was cabbage soup (one of my favorites). For dinner, also a bowl of white rice and 3-4 dishes and thankfully since I ate that only two hours ago, I can still tell you what it was! First there was a bowl of tomatoes with the center scooped out, small purple onions, and peanuts all mixed together with vegetable oil. It was wonderful. There was also some egg…not sure how they cooked it all so the egg stayed together and didn’t break up into pieces. I’ll have to observe more closely next time. And finally we had bean sprouts (maybe? they are white stringy things that Mom puts into that one dinner where its mashed up meat on buns with the white things to keep it crunchy….yes family members, you can see how advanced my food palate descriptions are haha) with tofu and some sauce. Again, absolutely delicious. We eat dinner rather late—close to 8 pm and I was so hungry today I just wolfed it down before realizing that none of us were talking. I think Morgan and Rachael and I were so hungry that all we could think about was food whereas the BWU interns might have also been very hungry or just shy about speaking English with us. So yes, I have been eating tons of rice (more than I’ve ever eaten in my life) with yummy vegetable and meat dishes.

One of the activities that we are doing while in Mae Sot is to teach English to three of BWU’s staff members. Their levels range a lot which is going to make it a little difficult but I think we can manage. One woman (again I don’t want to use names until I’m positive they aren’t trying to keep their identities a secret from the Burmese government) is quite advanced. Her grammar is great and she is very interested in specific verb tenses (like Past Particle or something…need to look that up tomorrow). We read an article about Nigeria and polio today and I’m pretty sure she understand a lot of it. Another woman, one of the interns living with us, I think is more advanced than she lets on. She’s very shy and speaks softly which adds to some confusion on our part but she understands a lot of what she says. I’m hoping in the next few days/weeks that she’ll become more comfortable with us and start speaking more assertively. The third woman is also a BWU intern and has only been here very recently. She is definitely a beginner so I think our biggest challenge with her is going to be vocabulary. We’re going to have to find some easier English to read than BBC and NYT which is what I brought. BBC and NYT should work for the other two though, which is exciting. I love teaching English with them. Today I worked one on one with the most advanced woman and we had a lot of fun. I also am her motorbike buddy (i.e. I sit on the back while she drives). She is the sweetest woman and I absolutely love her.

Today, after we were given a crash course of Burma’s history in an hour and a half but the head of BWU’s library in Mae Sot (woman with the best English speaking ability), the three women we are teaching English to asked if we wanted to try riding the motorbikes. I for one am terrified of motorcycles but these motorbikes are definitely not as fast/advanced and everyone rides them here. Our offices this year are much more central to Mae Sot then the group last year so it would actually be quite good for us if the three of us could become comfortable riding the bikes. We’ll see. I may stick to the good old fashioned pedal ones if we can find a way to get the flats fixed. Anyway, the three women took the three of us to this back road on the edge of town (maybe—I’m pretty disoriented here). It was a two lane rode and every once and a while, joggers would pass. The motorbikes here have gears which was fun to learn about since I’ve only ever driven an automatic once (not really counting the ten minutes in the Verizon parking lot although I really really appreciated that day, Dad!). One lady explained to us how to use bike and it seemed pretty easy. I was mostly just focused on the brake—right foot 😉 Rachael tried the bike first and after going up and down the paved street a few times, I gave it a go. Oh, we were wearing helmets—Mom and Dad would want me to mention that. If you have ever been around me while I am doing anything new or slightly frightening, I squeal a bit. This was no exception. I made a lot of interesting noises going down the road and didn’t go far at all before stopping, walking the bike around the turn and riding back. The woman that I have been work with for English lessons was the one teaching me and she looked very amused. After a few more goes up and down the street (still turning with my feet) she laughed and said I should try turning with the gas going. Reluctantly I tried and it wasn’t hard it all. Definitely more difficult to use one’s feet. I liked to go 20 kilometers an hour. I got to stay in 2nd gear, which was the gear we started on and was going my nice turtle pace. John can attest to this, but I also don’t like riding a pedal bicycle very fast because I don’t want to fall fast and I used the same mentality for riding a motorbike. Rachael and Morgan were going into 3rd and 4th gear while I kept cruising in 2nd. Eventually I decided to give it a go and it wasn’t too hard. Wearing a skirt was difficult because I couldn’t see my feet as well, so I decided since there wasn’t anyone around that it was probably ok to hitch up my skirt a bit. While people definitely dress more modest over here, shorts that go halfway down your thigh and tank tops are not uncommon. I kind of got the gearshift going. After coming back, Morgan explained it to me in more detail and I definitely think I could do it better next time. Right before we left, the most beginner English speaker hopped on the back with me (I must have been doing pretty well if she trusted me enough to ride with me) and we went along the road. I had some trouble with the gear shifting so she kind of directed me but all in all I think I was ok. I raised my eyebrows a bit to my friend (best English speaker) and she raised them back. We definitely have some good eyebrow communication going on haha. Maybe eventually we’ll be able to ride the bikes in the streets here but not for awhile. It’s still really trippy for me to ride on the wrong side of the street. Turns are the worst because I get so confused. The three women are confident we’ll be able to ride and I trust them—they are very good teachers and know they are responsible for our safety so they won’t put us in harm’s way.

After reading up more on Burmese history, I’ll make a post detailing important events. It is very fascinating, especially considering how little coverage it gets in the US. I have three mosquito bites at present while Rachael and Morgan have zero (._.) and will keep you updated on the status of that. I have been taking my malarial (or is it anti-malarial?) every night and will definitely keep track of my health. Am feeling great though and loving it over here! It’s everything I dreamed of and more!!! Love you all lots and I’m off to read the first Harry Potter again J Oh, John, I finished, With a Name Like Love. It’s a quick read. Not sure if you’ll like it but it’s cute.

Sending love over to the States (and some of this heat!!)

Rachel

Arrived at BWU :)

After 40 hours of travel (plane left LAX at 1 am on Monday and we arrived at BWU on Wednesday at 7 am = 5 pm PST, Tuesday) the three of us are here!! The first plane flight (14 hours from LAX to Taipei) went really smoothly. I was so tired because it was so early in the morning (and because I had taken two Tylenol PMs) that I fell asleep right away. I woke up sometime later to a tray of food in front of me. I must have looked quite surprised because the guy next to me (about Robert’s age) said something about getting me food because I was sleeping. I told him that was very nice of him, ate a little and then went back to sleep. When I woke up the food was gone. It was weird. Almost like a dream. I’m almost positive it wasn’t a dream because I distinctly remember what I ate but at this point I’m not entirely sure.

When I got to Taipei’s airport it was about 6:30 am in the morning. I hadn’t gone to the bathroom at all on the flight from LAX (I hate airplane bathrooms) so that was a priority. I also just really wanted to find my gate because Rachael and Morgan would be waiting there. They had us go through a security screening to get to the terminal where my next flight was leaving and I just automatically assumed it would be as intense as US screenings so I pulled out my laptop, shoes, coat, the works but then realized I had forgotten Dad’s Kindle in the backpack and a whole water bottle. They got upset about the water bottle but just told me to throw it away and didn’t rescreen the backpack. They were a lot more relaxed than US TSA officers and I think I could have left my laptop inside. >.>

Taipei’s airport is very interesting. They have all these different seating areas by themes. I went and took pictures of the Hello Kitty waiting room for Mom 🙂 There was also some ceremonial Chinese cookie trays and metal animals–kind of like the melody mufflers in Walla Walla. The layover was only 2 hours though so we were quickly back on a flight to Bangkok. The guy sitting next to me to Bangkok was very interesting. He is American but has lived in Thailand for 15 years. He told me to always ask for the taxi cab to be metered, bargain of the people will be insulted and only get directions from young girls because Thai people don’t like to admit when they don’t know something so they’ll give you any direction, even if it is not the right one.

After arriving in Bangkok, we got all of our things and headed to the hotel Dandi was originally planning on staying at. We were able to check in and take showers before heading into the city to grab a few items that people had forgotten. One of the wheels on Rachael’s suitcase had broken so we were looking for replacement luggage as well as a three-pronged converter, a towel and SIM cards for some cell phones. We went to this huge shopping center called Siam. It was completely overwhelming. There were at least three huge buildings with tons and tons of stores. We eventually were able to find a MacBook two pronged charger so we would be able to use Morgan’s two-pronged converter and one SIM card. It was 5 pm when we got the SIM card and we hadn’t purchased our bus tickets yet and our luggage was at the hotel, so we figured we needed to get a move on. We were originally just going to take a taxi but thankfully, a nice Thai woman stopped us and told us to take the subway because there was so much traffic this time of day it would take us 2 hours. The subway was very cheap–only 20 baht (30 baht ~ 1 USD) but boy was it crowded. Think of any image of crowded subways in Asia and that’s what we had. We were packed like sardines. Thankfully it wasn’t too far to the airport but it did take about 45 minutes. After we got to the airport, we grabbed a shuttle back to the hotel and were going to grab our luggage to go to the Northern bus terminal to catch our 9 pm bus to Mae Sot (pronounced Mae Sawt). We decided to ask the concierge to call the bus station and make sure there were still tickets available but after she got off the phone with them (5+ minutes) she told us there were no tickets available for that bus but if we went to the ticket station, there might be tickets available. We were really confused by her answer but figured it was best to just go for it and hope there would be tickets. The hotel’s checking out policy was that you go to stay for 24 hours after you check in, so luckily, we would be able to stay overnight at the hotel if they did sell out of tickets. This made us all feel much better.

After we gathered our belongings, we went downstairs and caught a cab. I asked for it to be metered and the driver put up a little but of a fight but when I wouldn’t relent, he finally gave in. He was rather odd and kept asking us if we wanted him to drive us to Mae Sawt. We kept saying no because it was a long trip but he either didn’t understand us because his English wasn’t great or he chose to ignore our answer. Eventually though, we did get going to the bus station before the interesting part happened.

Now don’t worry, Mom, we are all ok now but it was a rather scary situation. We were going down the highway (equivalent of the 405; perhaps a little slower) and there was a divide in the middle of the highway where you could keep going straight or turn off and go on a different highway. Well, our driver pulled into the middle white cross sectioned area and just stopped. Didn’t tell us anything, just got out of the car and opened his hood. I couldn’t believe it at this point and I figured any chance we had at getting bus tickets was now ruined. He came back inside after a minute and said his car was broken and he would call for another cab to come get us. I wasn’t at all sure how that would work because we were in the middle of the highway but eventually this cab pulled up in front of us and backed up. We quickly moved our stuff into his car and then he pulled away. Thankfully, Thai drivers don’t stay inside the highway edge lines as do US drivers, so he was able to speed up in the shoulder before joining the rest of traffic. I closed my eyes for this part and just didn’t want to know what was happening. After about 45 more minutes, we finally arrived at the Northern bus terminal. We popped out of the car and thankfully there were still 3 tickets available for the 9 pm bus to Mae Sot. We ushered our stuff into the station and found our departing area. We hadn’t eaten any food that day (it was quite hectic) and the food in the bus station was rather disgusting. Everything was in Thai so we didn’t know what we would be ordering and it all smelled really greasy so I just got some fruit and ate my granola bars.

After our light snack, we went to find gate 32. There were over 100 gates with huge buses but I asked a driver where to go and he eventually directed us. We got to the gate and tried to get on the bus but a Thai worker wouldn’t let us. She told us to wait 15 min. I figured it was because the bus that was at the station wasn’t our bus. This was the point where I could really feel the humidity. The other part of the day I was fine with the heat but standing, waiting to get on the bus was too much. I was able to buy a water for 10 baht though, which was super exciting. I stayed near the woman who spoke English and told us not to board the bus because there weren’t many English speakers around. It was a good thing too because they switched the bus stop on us but only announced it in Thai. She found us though and directed us in the right area. After we made sure all of our luggage was placed in the bus, we hopped on and hunkered down for the 9 hour bus ride. We left Bangkok at 9 pm and were supposed to arrive in Mae Sot at 6:30 am, at which point, a taxi driver from BWU would pick us up. We arrived at 5 pm though so we got to hang out in the Mae Sot bus station for an extra hour. It wasn’t too bad because we got to see the sun rise. I’d never seen it before. It wasn’t that exciting haha. Big Grammie’s cross stitched item in her bedroom that says something like “If God wanted us to see the sunrise, he wouldn’t make it so early in the morning” is definitely correct.

At about 4:30 am during the bus ride, we suddenly stopped and immigration workers got on the bus and checked out passports. It was rather frightening because they were in uniform but they just looked at all three of our passports and left us alone. One questioned Rachael about how long we were staying but I’m pretty sure it was just out of curiosity. They did take a few people off the bus and didn’t let them get back on so I’m not quite sure what happened to them.

After our hour wait at the Mae Sot bus station, a man came up to us and asked if we were “Ritchell.” He was a little bit difficult to understand but I soon figured out he was trying to say “Rachel,” just with a very heavy accent. We piled our stuff into his pick up truck and then we were off to BWU! Looking back on it, we were the only white people at the bus stop so it probably wasn’t too hard for him to find us. 🙂

We drove for a bit, but not too far before arriving at BWU. They changed locations in this past year and we are much more central to town now. We arrived at BWU around 6:30 am and a woman named Suzy greeted us. She showed us around and to our room. It’s much larger than I expected and we’ll easily be able to fit all four of us here once Dandi arrives. They had this delicious bread for us and coffee (which I think I will have to drink this summer so as not to be rude) before telling us we could relax this morning until 12 pm when Noe Noe Htet San would arrive. She is in charge of activity at BWU in Mae Sot and one of the women I have been communicating with

We did have one more interesting surprise this morning. They have an indoor toilet (yay!) but we couldn’t find a button to flush it. We looked all over before finding a pail. We figured you probably just poured water down it but we weren’t entirely sure how that would work, so we went and found Suzy. Her English is pretty good but there was definitely a communication issue and she couldn’t figure out what we were confused about. Once she realized we didn’t know what to do after going, she laughed and picked up the pail and poured water down the toilet. So we were right and gave her a good laugh. She went and told the other woman and they both had a good laugh about it. Silly Americans 🙂 I have 3 hours before meeting with Noe Noe so I think I may take a quick nap. Love you all lots and I am so happy to finally be in Mae Sot 🙂

Rachel

Departing on May 27 at 1 am!

Hello Family 🙂

I have created this blog to keep you up to date on my adventures in Thailand this summer. Feel free to leave any comments/questions on any post and I will answer them to the best of my ability. Thank you all for your support this past year and I’m so excited to actually be going! Now off to pack (haha who are we kidding? I’ll do that tomorrow). Love you all very much ❤

Rachel